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id="jfhhfjhh" class="col-1-2 fr"> <span id="jfhhfjhh" class="rm_type"><img src="/img/2020wbc/imgs/icon_type.png" alt=""><i>小字號(hào)</i></span> </div> </div> <div id="jfhhfjhh" class="rm_txt_con cf"> <div id="jfhhfjhh" class="bza"><span></span><p></p></div> <div id="jfhhfjhh" class="box_pic"></div> <table class="pci_c" width="400"> <tbody> <tr> <td align="center"><img src="http://paper.people.com.cn/rmrbhwb/images/1/20241018/1729196936281_1.jpg" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <p>　　9月27日，在山東曹縣大集鎮(zhèn)一家漢服基地，主播身穿漢服走秀。<br />　　新華社記者郭緒雷攝</p> </td> </tr> </tbody> </table> <table class="pci_c" width="400"> <tbody> <tr> <td align="center"><img src="http://paper.people.com.cn/rmrbhwb/images/1/20241018/1729196941244_1.jpg" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <p>　　3月26日，廣東省佛山市順德區(qū)一香云紗產(chǎn)研文化基地的工人，利用晴好天氣抓緊時(shí)間曬香云紗。<br />　　王國(guó)榮攝（人民圖片）</p> </td> </tr> </tbody> </table> <p>　　全國(guó)各地景區(qū)內(nèi)，身著漢服、旗袍、馬面裙等傳統(tǒng)服飾的游客隨處可見(jiàn)，旅拍店、妝造店生意火爆；大街上，不時(shí)看到“新中式”風(fēng)著裝的青年男女；電商平臺(tái)上，傳統(tǒng)服飾成交量和活躍商家迎來(lái)爆發(fā)式增長(zhǎng)。近年來(lái)，蘊(yùn)含中國(guó)元素、具有傳統(tǒng)特色的服飾成為消費(fèi)市場(chǎng)新亮點(diǎn)。最新數(shù)據(jù)顯示，2023年中國(guó)國(guó)潮經(jīng)濟(jì)市場(chǎng)規(guī)模為2.05萬(wàn)億元，同比增長(zhǎng)9.44%。中國(guó)漢服市場(chǎng)規(guī)模呈現(xiàn)持續(xù)擴(kuò)大趨勢(shì)，2023年達(dá)到144.7億元，2027年有望達(dá)到241.8億元。</p> <p>　　面對(duì)傳統(tǒng)服飾帶來(lái)的消費(fèi)熱潮，服裝相關(guān)產(chǎn)業(yè)如何撬動(dòng)廣闊藍(lán)海？記者對(duì)多地產(chǎn)業(yè)進(jìn)行了探訪。</p> <p>　<strong>　曹縣漢服產(chǎn)業(yè)——</strong></p> <p><strong>　　踩上風(fēng)口的縣域經(jīng)濟(jì)</strong></p> <p>　　說(shuō)到漢服，不能不提山東菏澤曹縣。全國(guó)每賣出3件漢服就有1件來(lái)自這里，亮眼的數(shù)據(jù)讓市場(chǎng)看到了曹縣漢服產(chǎn)業(yè)的蓬勃生機(jī)，更讓這座縣城成功“出圈”，進(jìn)入全國(guó)人民的視野。</p> <p>　　要說(shuō)曹縣的漢服產(chǎn)業(yè)，就不得不提到電子商務(wù)+戲服的“曹縣模式”。世紀(jì)之交，當(dāng)?shù)卮迕耖_(kāi)始在農(nóng)閑時(shí)生產(chǎn)影樓用品和戲服。電商經(jīng)濟(jì)興起后，大家開(kāi)始通過(guò)網(wǎng)絡(luò)渠道銷售服裝、對(duì)接代工客戶，曹縣逐漸發(fā)展為國(guó)內(nèi)最大的演出表演服飾加工基地。截至2024年7月，曹縣已經(jīng)擁有21個(gè)淘寶鎮(zhèn)、181個(gè)淘寶村，是全國(guó)第二大淘寶村集群。</p> <p>　　曹縣漢服協(xié)會(huì)會(huì)長(zhǎng)、辰霏服飾創(chuàng)始人胡春青是大連理工大學(xué)材料加工專業(yè)博士，也是曹縣服飾產(chǎn)業(yè)轉(zhuǎn)型升級(jí)的親歷者。2014年，他和妻子返鄉(xiāng)創(chuàng)業(yè)，投身電商大潮，產(chǎn)售兒童爵士舞演出服。隨著演出服訂單減少和“國(guó)潮熱”的興起，他們開(kāi)始將目光聚集到漢服上，并在2020年創(chuàng)立了漢服工作室。轉(zhuǎn)型的初期并不順利，但他們不斷積累漢服文化和經(jīng)營(yíng)經(jīng)驗(yàn)。如今，他們已經(jīng)設(shè)計(jì)了560多款漢服，獲得320個(gè)原創(chuàng)美術(shù)創(chuàng)作版權(quán)專利，公司年銷售額達(dá)3000萬(wàn)元，帶動(dòng)1000多人就業(yè)。</p> <p>　　近年來(lái)，隨著漢服熱度攀升，和辰霏服飾一樣看準(zhǔn)商機(jī)轉(zhuǎn)型發(fā)展的商家越來(lái)越多。現(xiàn)在，曹縣有漢服企業(yè)2524家、網(wǎng)店14718個(gè)、漢服線下體驗(yàn)店206家，漢服從業(yè)者人數(shù)近10萬(wàn)人，做到了5公里以內(nèi)的產(chǎn)業(yè)集群化（從染色、剪裁到成衣制作在五公里以內(nèi)的范圍即可完成），形成了完整的產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈條和品牌孵化體系。</p> <p>　　當(dāng)熱度和基礎(chǔ)兼具，如何進(jìn)一步延續(xù)漢服產(chǎn)業(yè)的發(fā)展勢(shì)頭？在胡春青看來(lái)，一方面需要加強(qiáng)漢服的宣傳與營(yíng)銷，另一方面也要加強(qiáng)產(chǎn)品更新，尤其是設(shè)計(jì)層面的迭代升級(jí)。胡春青向我們介紹，去年底，他們團(tuán)隊(duì)做了一款戰(zhàn)國(guó)袍，其中，紋樣和配飾根據(jù)史料記載做了復(fù)原和改進(jìn)，顏色搭配則以現(xiàn)代審美為主，產(chǎn)品一經(jīng)上市就受到了消費(fèi)者的廣泛關(guān)注。</p> <p>　　山河錦繡設(shè)計(jì)公司主理人陳龍也于今年春天將公司落戶曹縣，用設(shè)計(jì)賦能漢服產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展?！澳壳埃覀円呀?jīng)和十余家漢服企業(yè)達(dá)成了深度合作，覆蓋了約80%的本地頭部企業(yè)?！标慅堈f(shuō)，產(chǎn)業(yè)聚集給曹縣漢服帶來(lái)了高性價(jià)比的優(yōu)勢(shì)，也讓這里成為設(shè)計(jì)師的天堂，“作為設(shè)計(jì)公司，我們要在尊重歷史的基礎(chǔ)上，結(jié)合現(xiàn)代審美和穿著需求，針對(duì)不同年齡群體，設(shè)計(jì)不同風(fēng)格、不同功能的漢服，讓漢服真正‘穿’入日常，用服飾推廣和傳承好傳統(tǒng)文化?！?/p> <p>　　漢服產(chǎn)業(yè)的爆火，不僅讓從業(yè)者腰包鼓了，也讓曹縣的GDP有了飛躍——2021年至2023年，曹縣GDP總量連續(xù)三年位居菏澤市第一。“下一步，曹縣將聚焦市場(chǎng)需求和消費(fèi)趨勢(shì)，進(jìn)一步推動(dòng)漢服產(chǎn)業(yè)擴(kuò)大規(guī)模和提檔升級(jí)，讓漢服成為連接傳統(tǒng)與現(xiàn)代、歷史與未來(lái)的文化紐帶。”曹縣相關(guān)負(fù)責(zé)人表示。</p> <p>　　<strong>倫教香云紗產(chǎn)業(yè)——</strong></p> <p><strong>　　標(biāo)準(zhǔn)引領(lǐng)產(chǎn)業(yè)健康發(fā)展</strong></p> <p>　　在廣東佛山順德及珠三角地區(qū)，香云紗的染整技藝已傳承百年以上，從未間斷。2008年，香云紗染整技藝被列入國(guó)家非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)，佛山市順德區(qū)倫教街道是香云紗的核心生產(chǎn)地及染整技藝的傳承地。這樣一個(gè)具有濃厚地區(qū)特色和文化底蘊(yùn)的傳統(tǒng)紡織珍品如何進(jìn)一步打開(kāi)市場(chǎng)空間？相關(guān)產(chǎn)業(yè)如何持續(xù)健康發(fā)展？</p> <p>　　香云紗從業(yè)者給出了他們的答案：標(biāo)準(zhǔn)引領(lǐng)，創(chuàng)新先行。</p> <p>　　香云紗本名“莨紗”，有“軟黃金”的美譽(yù)，其制作工藝復(fù)雜、考究，僅染整環(huán)節(jié)就需要經(jīng)過(guò)“三浸六煮十八曬”?！白鳛橐粋€(gè)手工為主的產(chǎn)業(yè)，標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的確立其實(shí)非常重要。”倫教香云紗協(xié)會(huì)會(huì)長(zhǎng)周曉剛對(duì)記者說(shuō)。</p> <p>　　從成為國(guó)家級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)，到乘上“新中式”服飾熱的東風(fēng)，香云紗及香云紗服飾產(chǎn)業(yè)經(jīng)歷過(guò)快速發(fā)展的時(shí)期，也曾遇到過(guò)劣質(zhì)產(chǎn)品破壞產(chǎn)業(yè)形象的問(wèn)題，而《香云紗地方標(biāo)準(zhǔn)》從材料、環(huán)境、工藝等維度對(duì)香云紗生產(chǎn)流程做了規(guī)范，保證了香云紗面料的撕拉力、色牢度等指標(biāo)能夠符合現(xiàn)代服飾要求，提升了產(chǎn)品品質(zhì)。</p> <p>　　質(zhì)量上去了，創(chuàng)新也不可或缺。</p> <p>　　周曉剛介紹，近年來(lái)，香云紗曬莨場(chǎng)的布料，在顏色、提花花型、印花圖案等方面都有所豐富，為下游的設(shè)計(jì)、生產(chǎn)提供了更多選擇，讓產(chǎn)品更加貼近年輕消費(fèi)者的需求。在生產(chǎn)方面，涂泥機(jī)器的加入減輕了勞動(dòng)負(fù)擔(dān)，讓布料出品更加穩(wěn)定；通過(guò)利用陽(yáng)光相對(duì)欠缺的時(shí)日曬制淺色布料，香云紗生產(chǎn)窗口也得到了一定的延長(zhǎng)。</p> <p>　　“當(dāng)前，市場(chǎng)對(duì)香云紗服飾呈現(xiàn)出精致化與年輕化的需求。因此，我們?cè)谠O(shè)計(jì)方面注重將傳統(tǒng)元素與現(xiàn)代設(shè)計(jì)相結(jié)合，比如我們的十二生肖系列連衣裙賣得就很好。”中國(guó)粵港澳服飾商會(huì)（澳門(mén)區(qū)）執(zhí)行會(huì)長(zhǎng)、莨莊香云紗創(chuàng)始人林慧介紹，現(xiàn)在的香云紗服飾款式選擇更加多樣，在面料上融入了宋錦、蜀錦等材質(zhì)，在刺繡工藝上綜合運(yùn)用廣繡、蘇繡、蜀繡等名繡技藝，結(jié)合飄紗、流蘇、拼接等現(xiàn)代設(shè)計(jì)元素，使得香云紗私定服飾在保持傳統(tǒng)特色的同時(shí)更加符合現(xiàn)代生活的審美。</p> <p>　　據(jù)了解，目前，莨莊香云紗擁有百余名匠人，年產(chǎn)值在3000萬(wàn)元左右，與起步階段相比，產(chǎn)值增長(zhǎng)了4倍。從跟隨國(guó)家藝術(shù)基金會(huì)深入意大利、俄羅斯等7個(gè)國(guó)家進(jìn)行“全球生態(tài)香云紗推廣”，到作為成都第31屆世界大學(xué)生夏季運(yùn)動(dòng)會(huì)特許品牌，供應(yīng)“蓉寶”手繡香云紗系列臺(tái)屏和相關(guān)服飾，再到攜“龍騰千瑞·鳳吟尋蹤”主題服飾作品參加絲綢之路國(guó)際時(shí)裝周獲得中外同行廣泛贊譽(yù)，莨莊香云紗在拓展香云紗產(chǎn)品市場(chǎng)的同時(shí)，也在一步步嘗試推動(dòng)香云紗文創(chuàng)收藏品登上國(guó)際舞臺(tái)。</p> <p>　　“香云紗染整技藝沿襲數(shù)百年之久，能形成今天的產(chǎn)業(yè)化發(fā)展，實(shí)屬來(lái)之不易。”周曉剛說(shuō)，香云紗從業(yè)者要進(jìn)一步做好技藝層面的記錄、傳承和創(chuàng)新，同時(shí)更要通過(guò)對(duì)行業(yè)內(nèi)年輕人的扶持和培養(yǎng)，讓他們“進(jìn)得來(lái)、留得住”，為香云紗產(chǎn)業(yè)的持續(xù)健康發(fā)展奠定良好基礎(chǔ)。</p> <p>　　<strong>漢口北市場(chǎng)——</strong></p> <p><strong>　　漢派服裝上播打開(kāi)新市場(chǎng)</strong></p> <p>　　金鷹供應(yīng)鏈選品中心，于2019年入駐漢口北品牌服裝城直播供應(yīng)鏈基地。負(fù)責(zé)人陳老板，開(kāi)過(guò)門(mén)店，也組建過(guò)自己的服裝工廠，在服裝行業(yè)摸爬滾打了30余年。曾經(jīng)，由她自主研發(fā)、生產(chǎn)、銷售的原創(chuàng)品牌，廣受中青年群體青睞，直營(yíng)店覆蓋至湖北全省各縣市50余大中型商場(chǎng)，全國(guó)區(qū)域代理500多家。</p> <p>　　傳統(tǒng)線上平臺(tái)興起時(shí)，她在同行間率先開(kāi)通多家線上平臺(tái)賬號(hào)拓銷路。2020年新冠疫情宅家期間，她再次緊跟時(shí)代潮流，抱著學(xué)習(xí)心態(tài)，第一時(shí)間開(kāi)通直播賬號(hào)，利用多年的服裝行業(yè)資源轉(zhuǎn)型做服裝供應(yīng)鏈。</p> <p>　　在她看來(lái)，服裝企業(yè)早期靠傳統(tǒng)電商渠道的紅利已近消弭，運(yùn)用好供應(yīng)鏈新模式重整數(shù)字化布局才是趨勢(shì)。2019年入駐漢口北后，她依托漢口北市場(chǎng)超強(qiáng)輻射能力及直播綜合服務(wù)優(yōu)勢(shì)，打造了金鷹服供應(yīng)鏈選品中心，為各大平臺(tái)直播間提供漢派服飾產(chǎn)品，現(xiàn)已成為推動(dòng)漢派服裝復(fù)興的中堅(jiān)力量，成功實(shí)現(xiàn)了“傳統(tǒng)服裝貿(mào)易服務(wù)商”向“服裝行業(yè)供應(yīng)鏈平臺(tái)”的數(shù)字化轉(zhuǎn)型。</p> <p>　　近年來(lái)，漢派服飾不斷推陳出新，將漢繡與楚文化等傳統(tǒng)元素進(jìn)行創(chuàng)新設(shè)計(jì)和表達(dá)，收獲了眾多年輕用戶。</p> <p>　　2023年，漢派最具影響力的品牌服裝折扣供應(yīng)商之一——惠品品牌服飾供應(yīng)鏈企業(yè)入駐漢口北品牌服裝城，打造面積2000平方米的直播供應(yīng)鏈展廳，加速融入電商“基因”。</p> <p>　　惠品品牌服飾供應(yīng)鏈擁有自己的制作工廠及設(shè)計(jì)團(tuán)隊(duì)，創(chuàng)業(yè)十余年來(lái)，不斷提升原創(chuàng)設(shè)計(jì)和文化承載，融入東方美學(xué)和國(guó)潮文化，讓漢派服飾的時(shí)尚體驗(yàn)持續(xù)加分，與諸多服飾品牌合作，下游采購(gòu)商3000余家，遍布全國(guó)線下商場(chǎng)和商業(yè)街。</p> <p>　　漢口北服裝直播供應(yīng)鏈基地共30萬(wàn)平方米，集聚了近200家服裝供應(yīng)鏈企業(yè)，常駐帶貨主播200余人，其中百萬(wàn)級(jí)知名主播團(tuán)隊(duì)10余個(gè)，背靠華中單體體量最大的服裝批發(fā)商圈，打造紡織服裝供應(yīng)鏈平臺(tái)，用“一根線”織出完整產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈，“經(jīng)緯”之間布滿全國(guó)。</p> <p>　　“這件衣服面料摸起來(lái)很柔軟，你值得擁有”“都是現(xiàn)貨，價(jià)格實(shí)惠，先拍先得”……品牌服裝城直播基地24小時(shí)直播不間斷，主播們通過(guò)電商平臺(tái)向消費(fèi)者介紹自己的產(chǎn)品，直播間外，商戶推著小車在基地穿梭，將一件件衣服掃碼打包，再發(fā)往全國(guó)各地。</p> <p>　　一間間設(shè)備齊全、熱鬧非凡的直播間，一家家業(yè)態(tài)醇熟的供應(yīng)鏈企業(yè)和直播商戶，它們不僅僅是傳統(tǒng)服裝企業(yè)數(shù)字化轉(zhuǎn)型的印證，更代表著服裝行業(yè)新發(fā)展方向的探索，實(shí)體服裝企業(yè)與數(shù)字經(jīng)濟(jì)的深度融合發(fā)展，助力漢口北市場(chǎng)打造“線上線下”千億級(jí)市場(chǎng)。</p><div id="jfhhfjhh" class="zdfy clearfix"></div><center><table border="0" align="center" width="40%"><tr></tr></table></center> <div id="jfhhfjhh" class="box_pic"></div> <div id="jfhhfjhh" class="edit cf">(責(zé)編：樸馨語(yǔ)、張永生)</div> <p class="paper_num"><em class="section-common-share-wrap">分享讓更多人看到 <i class="btn_share_common"><img src="/img/2020wbc/imgs/share.png" alt=""></i> </em></p> 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